STATES AND UNION TERRITORIES OF INDIA
ANDHRA PRADESH
Ahobilam Yatra
- Aparna Rajagopal
(Ahobilam is located in Karnool district of Andhra Pradesh in the hills of the eastern ghats, about 400km northwest of Chennai. To get
to Ahobila by road you will have to pass through Renigunta, Kadappa,
and Allagadda. Thirumalai Tiruppati is on the way. The temple
consists of nine shrines to Lord Nrisimha located around a 5 KM circle.
Ahobila Nrisimha, Jwala Nrisimha, Malola Nrisimha, Kroda Nrisimha,
Karanja Nrisimha, Bhargava Nrisimha, Yaogananda Nrisimha, Kshatravata
Nrisimha, Pavana Nrisimha. In addition to the nine shrines, there is a
temple for Prahaladavarada Varadhan in the foothills of the mountain.
Source: ahobilamutt.org)
21 of us were picked up from Ashok Nagar metro station around 9pm on a
Friday in a tempo traveller, navigating the traffic to reach the
outskirts of Chennai took a few hours. Reached Malola guest house at
6.30am Saturday. We got ready right away, had breakfast and waited for
the jeeps to pick us up. A rusty rickety Mahindra jeep was our ride for
the forenoon, visiting Pavana and Bharghava Narasimha temples.
The 1.5 hour one way ride along the rugged “roads” full of rocks,
potholes covered in red dust made sure to rattle every single bone in
our body. As we neared Pavana river we could see a lot of villagers
heading towards the temple in their tractors. They belong to the
Padmasali tribe into which Mahalakshmi Thayar was born as Chenchu
Lakshmi to marry Narasimhaswami.
They have this tradition of giving “Bali” to the exalted mappilai
(son-in-law) of their tribe most Saturdays. The jeep dropped us off a km
away from the temple. We trudged thru the blood soaked ground picking
our way between goat and chicken carcasses to reach the Garuda stambam
that guards the temple, from whence into the quaint temple that houses
LakshmiNarasimha at the banks of Pavana river. The villagers let us
outsiders have a relaxed darshan for as long as we wished and the
Bhattar did not ask us to leave either.
Here Bhagwan is seated in Sukhasana on Adisesha and has four hands, the
upper two carry Shanku and Chakra, the lower right in abhaya pose, while
the lower left embraces Lakshmi seated on His left thigh. Had a
wonderful darshan and got ready for another round of bone rattling.
The villagers were already cooking their share of goat/chicken all over
the forest. There were signs of forest fires and the forest in some
places were littered with paper plates. The forest rangers belong to the
same tribe too, so they leave the villagers be and let them do what they
please.
We were relieved to hit a smooth road and the relief lasted for all of 6
minutes as we entered another rugged path to reach the foothills of
Bharghava Narasimha temple. We walked about half a kilometre up a slight
slope where we could see tree branches that looked like swings, reached
Bharghava Theertham where Parashurama had performed his penance towards
Narasimha and Bhagwan appeared in front of him to bless him. Climbed a
few dozens of steps to reach Bharghava Narasimha temple, very quiet
sannidhi, just a few of us who were agile enough to climb up and reach
ahead of others (and the vanara sena of course).
Bhattar explained the Kshetrapurana and gave us theertham sadari.
Narasimha here has 4 arms, upper 2 holding Shanku chakkaram, the other 2
tearing at Hiranyakashipu on his lap, who is seen holding a sword.
Prahaladha is seen with folded hands, Anjali posture at the Bhagwan’s
feet.
Now some more bone rattling back to the guesthouse, had lunch and turned in for a short siesta.
Around 4pm started again in the tempo traveller. First temple we visited
was Yoganandha Narasimaswamy temple. This is another tiny simple temple
with a modern structure, just one sannidhi. Legend is that Narasimha
taught Prahladha Yoga in this place and Prahlada obtained greatness by
following His teachings. Here Bhagwan is in a seated position on a
Garuda pedestal with Yogapatta around his knees. 4 hands, upper 2
holding Shanka chakra and lower two resting on his knees.
(Inexplicably a well like structure was being built on a level ground
right outside the sannidhi, Future Yatris should share an update about
that curious structure)
Next up went to Chatravata Narasimha temple. A peepul tree (vata)
forming an umbrella like canopy (chathra) for the temple. Here Bhagwan
has a lovely smiling face seated in Padmasana, upper 2 hands holding
Shanka Chakra, lower right as abhayahasta and lower left resting on his
thigh. Legend is that 2 gandharvas named Haha and Huhu (interesting
names) came down to entertain the Bhagwan by singing to him for a long
time and He made them the best singers of all 3 worlds during their
time. So the Bhattar asked us to sing bhajan or chant. So we all chanted
Vishnusahasranama and Mantrarajapata stotram in the sannidhi. Excellent
vibe there for a short time.
Then we headed towards Prahladavarada Narasimha temple, the largest
temple in Ahobilam, and the only one in Digva or lower Ahobilam, not a
part of nava Narasimha cluster, which are all in Eguva or upper
Ahobilam. On the way visited a Hanuman temple. No one was there but us,
Anjees was covered in Sendhuram and looked wonderful.
Prahladavaradha temple was built over the time by rulers of Vijayanagara
and Kakatiya empires. The architecture is mainly Vijayanagara type,
with beautiful sculptures in Mukha mandapam and Ranga mandapam. At the
main entrance as we walk thru the arches, there is a tall Vijayastambha
established by Krishnadeva Raya to commemorate his victory in Kalinga.
The temple is adorned with beautiful sculptures right from the entrance
wall. Prahladavaradha Narasimha has the main sannidhi, Amrithavalli
Thayar blesses from the adjacent sannidhi. Besides there are sannidhis
for Rama parivar, Hanuman and Andal. Inside the main Sannidhi
Prahladhavaradha Narasimha is seated with Thayar on his lap. He holds
shanka chakra and abhayahasta. Prahladha is seen nearby in Anjali pose.
Inside the sannidhi there is a niche filled with richly decorated utsava
murthis of this temple and those of the Nava Narasimhas, which are
taken to upper Ahobilam during utsava times.
You can spend hours in this temple looking at the beautiful sculptures.
After this temple we went to ISKCON for our dinner. We couldn’t believe
that in the middle of nowhere there is this huge prayer hall and a huge
dining hall catering to their followers, they also have a
self-sustaining garden. When we reached, there came a busload of
caucasians dancing and singing, they did one bhajan and danced, went
their way, Krishna knows where to!! Saying that we were astonished at
their level of dedication and energy would be an understatement. After a
day of going around we all looked like drained out half-zombies, in
front of that chirpy dancing crowd.
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